AQS Block by Block Basics: Jewel Box sponsored by AccuQuilt

By American Quilter's Society
Mar 11, 2025

Welcome to the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! Each month we'll spend three weeks playing with one block. Week one, we'll kick things off with hand piecing from templates like the quilters of yesterday. For week two, we'll use the AccuQuilt Cutting System and machine-piece the blocks with a focus on precision piecing. Finally, in week three, we'll focus on making the block fabulous with a variety of embellishment techniques.

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

If you missed our first block, the Sixteen Patch, you can find it here. Check out our second block, Uneven Nine-Patch, here.

Hand pieced Jewel Box

Jewel Box Block

12" x 12" finished block size

Week One: Template cutting and hand piecing

Week Two: AccuQuilt cutting and precision machine piecing

Week Three: Embellishment fun

Each month, we'll complete two blocks, one hand pieced and one machine pieced. You can finish one or both of the blocks to make mini quilts or use them in projects. We'll have lots of creative ideas along the way for using your 12" blocks. We'll also offer finishing instructions if you prefer to save all the blocks for a quilt.

Week One

Template Options

Follow the steps from our first month (click here to visit the first tutorial) to make the two templates needed for this month's Jewel Box block.

Jewel Box Templates

You need the following templates:

(1) 3" x 3" square (you can use the same one from month one and two)

(1) 6" x 6" square, cut in half diagonally once for a Half Square Triangle

Half Square Triangle Template

(Fun fact: the 3” square fits inside the leftover 6” HST!)

Remember, these are finished sizes and don't include the seam allowances. Be sure to label your templates so it's easy to find the right size when you need it!

Select your fabric, and start tracing. If last month was your first time hand piecing, you'll have a pretty good idea of how much seam allowance you want.

If this is your first try, here's some important info you shouldn't miss:

Seam allowances are different for hand piecing. They don't serve as a guide for accuracy rather they exist so the fabric doesn't fray too much while you sew. If you're new to hand piecing, give yourself some extra room. You can always trim them down later. DO NOT CUT ON THE DRAWN LINE - it's tempting, but don't do it.

Step one: Select the fabrics for the block. Traditionally, a two-color option is popular for this block, or a consistent background fabric would be used with scrappy fabrics. You can do anything you want anytime with your block, that’s the best part. You will need the following amount of each piece:

(8) 3” squares

(4) 6” half square triangles

Step two: Trace the template on the backside of the fabric leaving enough room between the patches for the seam allowances (a 1/4" or so for each patch is preferred for the seam allowance, but it's not a rule for hand piecing - you'll learn what you like best).

Step three: Cut out the patches leaving enough fabric outside the drawn line for a seam allowance.

Hand Piecing

Something about this block unlocked hand piecing a bit more for me. Following my intuition, I made the bold choice to cut the seam allowances for this block wide and wonky. I am usually a pretty precise quilter in my choices, and as a lifelong machine piecer, I’ve lived and died by my seam allowance’s ¼” width, so this was outside my norm. I didn’t expect how nostalgic that choice would make me, but I felt like I was picking up one of my great-grandmother’s unfinished quilt tops for every stitch of this block. The wider seam made life especially easy for the half square triangles, and I’ve included some tips to use sewing to guide precision, rather than the seam allowance width. - Emily

Previously, we covered the Quilter's Knot, the Tailor's Lock Stitch, and the End Knot. If you missed it, you can catch up here.

Hand piecing the Jewel Box uses all the same techniques as you used for the previous blocks, but let’s talk about pinning for accuracy before we dig in.

Pinning for Accuracy (Optional)

Pins can be used to help with accuracy by aligning the sewing lines before stitching begins. To do this, place a pin through the fabric at the corner of the marked sewing lines from the wrong side to the right side of the patch. Then layer the next patch, right sides together, lining up the pin to the marked sewing lines.

Next, set the end of the pin through both layers, along the sew line which won’t be stitched. Check both sides for alignment, as shown below.

Piecing the Four Patches

Begin by piecing the patches into the four patch unit, two at a time. Remember, begin and end each seam at the corner, not sewing into the seam allowance.

Lay the duos into four patches and finger press the seams in opposite directions. Then sew the four patches together, making sure to sew through the seam where the seams meet in the center.

Make two sets of four patch units.

Below is a refresher on how to pass through the seam when sewing this patch.

Passing Through the Seam

Step one: When you come to a seam, take a back stitch on the marked link, right up to the seam.

Step two: Pass the needle through the seam on the same side you are stitching from, above the seam's stitches. If you pass the needle below the seam's stitches your stitch will show on the front of your block.

Step three: Once on the other side of the seam, take a stitch forward, and then backstitch over this stitch to continue.

Piecing the Half Square Triangles

Line up the half square triangle patches right sides together and pin. Take care not to stretch the material too much across the bias of the fabric on this larger piece. Again, remember not to sew into the seam allowances, just corner to corner.

Make two half square triangle units.

Assembling the Jewel Box Block

It's time to stitch your units together and complete your block. You may find it helpful to use pins or clips during this part. Do what is comfortable for you.

Lay the top four patch over the top half square triangle units, right sides together. Pin if desired.
Take your first locking stitch at the beginning corner. Stitch until you reach center seams of the four patch, then make sure to pass through that seam to avoid stitching the seam allowance in place. Sew to the other corner and tie off.
Repeat for the bottom row with the remaining four patch and half square triangle units. Finger press these seams so they lock when layered right sides together.
Lay the top row over the bottom row, right sides together. Pin if desired.
Take your first locking stitch at the beginning corner. Stitch until you reach the first set of seams. Stop and make sure the seams are aligned. Once the seams are matched, take your first back stitch, then pass through the seam and take your next stitch.
Continue stitching the row matching and passing through the seams as you come to them.
Once completed, finger press your rows.
Continue this process until you've stitched all the rows in the block.

At this point, you may be tempted to press your block. However, you may want to wait until you decide on your embellishment and quilting in week three.

Week Two

Welcome to week two of the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! For week two, we'll use the AccuQuilt Cutting GO! to die cut the fabric, and then we’ll machine piece the blocks with a focus on precision piecing.

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

Download the free 12" Jewel Box block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Cutting with the AccuQuilt GO!

I knew when I saw the four block variation on this week’s pattern from AccuQuilt that I wanted to make a traditional-inspired version of Jewel Box. It was easy to resize the blocks from 12” finished to 6” finished using the cutting system. I’ll include instructions for making the block variation above, which is 12” finished.

Supplies for Cutting with the AccuQuilt GO!

Download the free Jewel block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Small scissors to cut threads, if needed

Single Block Dies Used:

GO! Square-3½” (3” Finished) (55006)

GO! Half Square Triangle-6” Finished Square (55001)

4-Block Variation Dies Used:

GO! Qube Mix & Match 6” Block-GO! Square 1½” Finished (55702)

GO! Qube Mix & Match 6” Block-GO! Half Square Triangle 3” Finished (55703)

Fabric:

At least two different fabrics, but you could use as many as you like.

If you need a refresh on the cutting process using the AccuQuilt Cutting System, visit our tutorial here.

To make 1 block, cut out:

(4) Half Square Triangles (Creates 2 HST units)

(8) Squares (Creates 2 four-patch units)

To make 4 blocks, cut out:

(12) Half Square Triangles (Creates 8 HST units)

(32) Squares (Creates 8 Four Patch units)

Machine Piecing

Machine piecing is rich with a variety of techniques and tricks for assembly. If you have any trouble figuring it out or have questions, visit the AQS Quilting Project Parade Group on Facebook. We'll be happy to show you how.

Machine Piecing Supplies

Download the free Jewel Box block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Sewing machine

Thread

Scissors

Fabric

Half Square Triangles

The AccuQuilt cutting system trims the corners and makes sewing this unit easy.

To begin, layer two patches, right sides together.

Sew from point to point. A ¼” quilter’s sewing foot is perfect for this step.

If sewing the single block, make two HST units, 6½” unfinished.

If sewing the four-block variation, make 8 HST units, 3½” unfinished.

Four Patch Units

Layer two square patches right sides together, and sew.

Press the pairs all in the same direction. (If you’re sewing the four-block variation, save yourself the back and forth to the ironing board by pressing your HST and pairs at the same time.)

Layer two pairs together, locking the center seam. Sew and press.

If making the single block, repeat to make 2 four-patch units 6½” unfinished.

If making the four-block variation, repeat to make 8 four-patch units 3½” unfinished.

Single Block Assembly

Layer an HST and four-patch unit and sew.

Repeat with the other units and press in the same direction.

Sew the rows together to create the block. Single block is 12 ½” unfinished.

Four-Block Variation Assembly

Try laying out the whole block and playing with placement until it looks like you want. There are lots of layouts to explore.

Repeat the instructions for the single block to create four blocks, each one is 6½” unfinished.

Sew the blocks together in pairs, and press. Then sew the pairs together and press. Block variation measures 12½” unfinished.

Be sure to stop by the AQS Quilting Project Parade Group on Facebook to show off your finished blocks.

Week Three

Welcome to week three of making the Jewel Box block as part of the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! For week three, we'll be adding extra embellishment to our blocks. This month, we're focusing on creating and incorporating crochet motif appliques. We’ll cover two basic shapes, a circle and a half square triangle, made with crochet.

In the months ahead, we'll explore many techniques including some for various finishing options. Have fun combining and building upon each month's embellishment techniques as it goes. Let's start with crochet!

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

Basic Crochet Circle Motif

A recent trip to AQS QuiltWeek Branson inspired this week’s embellishment. Several quilts at the show featured crochet motifs as appliquéd elements. The playfully small world the crochet appliqués brought to the quilts charmed me, and the crochet itself made me presently aware of the makers. Crochet can only be made by hand, there is no machine-made version, and so looking at each delicately made shape, I imagined the maker’s hands moving in the entrancing dance of creation. Whether you’re new to crochet or know it well, I hope you enjoy the feeling of fiber moving through your hands and forming something you imagined.

-Emily Cross

Supplies for crochet

Yarn - Any weight and variety will work, we used a worsted weight cotton yarn

Crochet Hook - We used a 3.75mm hook, use any hook size desired for your weight of yarn

Small Scissors

Needle - A blunt needle like a tapestry needle to weave in ends

For attachment:

Thread, Floss, or Perle Cotton

Needle - A sharp needle with a wide enough eye to thread the thread, floss or yarn through, like a chenille needle

Pencil, optional

Glue, optional

Basic Stitch & Technique Guide

Crochet patterns usually include an explanation of stitches used and a key for the shortened name of the stitch like ”Single Crochet (sc)”. Find that and other basic crochet terms used throughout the pattern below and use this as a reference as needed.

Yarn Over (yo): Move your hook under the working yarn, then up and over it so the yarn is caught on the hook. This is a basic motion used in many crochet stitches.

Chain (ch): Yarn over, then pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. This creates a simple looped stitch. Chains are often used as the foundation for projects or to secure stitches.

Magic Ring (mr): A technique for starting crochet in the round with an adjustable loop, allowing you to pull the center tight.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on the hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops.

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook in one motion.

Fasten Off: Cut the yarn, leaving a small tail, and pull it through the last loop to secure the work.

Crochet Circle Pattern: Magic Ring with 6 Single Crochet Stitches

Instructions:

1. Make a Magic Ring (MR):

Hold the yarn tail in your hand and wrap the working yarn (the yarn connected to the ball) around two or three fingers to form a loop.
Insert your crochet hook under the loop, then yarn over (hook the yarn) and pull it through the loop.
Chain 1 (ch 1) to secure the loop—this does not count as a stitch but helps keep the ring stable.

2. Work 6 single crochet (6sc) into the Magic Ring:

Insert your hook into the center of the ring.
Yarn over and pull up a loop (you now have two loops on your hook).
Yarn over again and pull through both loops—this completes one single crochet.
Repeat this process five more times until you have 6 single crochet stitches in the ring.

3. Close the Ring:

Pull the yarn tail to tighten the magic ring, closing the center hole.

4. Join with a Slip Stitch (sl st):

Insert your hook into the first single crochet you made.
Yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook in one motion.

5. Fasten Off:

Cut the yarn, leaving a small tail.
Pull the yarn through the last loop and tighten to secure.
Use a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Now you’ve created a small closed circle! This is a common foundation for all circular crochet projects.

How to Embroider Small Crochet Motifs to Quilt Blocks

Create as many motifs as you like and attach them to the block any way you like. Invisible stitch techniques let the crochet shine, but visible stitches like embroidery add dimension while securing the crochet motif. Small motifs lend themselves to visible stitch techniques.

These circles were made to look like little flowers.

Each center was marked on the back of the square in the center for placement of the first stitch.

Tie a knot in the floss and come up through the center mark.

Thread the crochet circle motif onto the needle.

Wrap the floss around the needle twice and put the needle tip down at the edge of the circle. Hold the wraps securely with one hand as you pull the floss with the other hand through to create an extended French knot stitch.

Be sure to stop by the AQS Quilting Project Parade Group on Facebook to show off your finished blocks.

Next month, beginning April 9th, we will make the Clay’s Choice block!