AQS Block by Block Basics: Uneven Nine Patch sponsored by AccuQuilt

By American Quilter's Society
Feb 11, 2025

Welcome to the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! Each month we'll spend three weeks playing with one block. Week one, we'll kick things off with hand piecing from templates like the quilters of yesterday. For week two, we'll use the AccuQuilt Cutting System and machine piece the blocks with a focus on precision piecing. Finally, in week three, we'll focus on making the block fabulous with a variety of embellishment techniques.

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

If you missed our first block, the Sixteen Patch, you can find it here.

Uneven Nine Patch Block

12" x 12" finished block size

Week One: Template cutting and hand piecing

Week Two: AccuQuilt cutting and precision machine piecing

Week Three: Embellishment fun

Each month, we'll complete two blocks, one hand pieced and one machine pieced. You can finish one or both of the blocks to make mini quilts or use them in projects. We'll have lots of creative ideas along the way for using your 12" blocks. We'll also offer finishing instructions if you prefer to save all the blocks for a quilt.

Week One

Template Options

Last month, we made cardboard templates. The only disadvantage to cardboard templates is that the size can change over multiple uses (lots and lots of uses!). The easy solution is to use plastic. This month, we've created plastic templates from gridded plastic sheets.

Follow the steps from last month (click here to visit last month's post) to make the three templates needed for this month's Uneven Nine Patch.

You need:

(1) 3" x 3" square (use can use the one from last month!)

(1) 3" x 6" rectangle

(1) 6" x 6" square

Remember, these are finished sizes and don't include the seam allowances. Be sure to label your templates so it's easy to find the right size when you need it!

Select your fabric, and start tracing. If last month was your first time hand piecing, you'll have a pretty good idea of how much seam allowance you want.

If this is your first try, here's some important info you shouldn't miss:

Seam allowances are different for hand piecing. They don't serve as a guide for accuracy rather they exist so the fabric doesn't fray too much while you sew. If you're new to hand piecing, give yourself some extra room. You can always trim them down later. DO NOT CUT ON THE DRAWN LINE - it's tempting, but don't do it.

Step one: Select the fabric. You'll need at least two different fabrics for this block, but you could use up to sixteen unique fabrics.

Step two: Trace the template on the backside of the fabric leaving enough room between the patches for the seam allowances (a 1/4" or so for each patch is preferred for the seam allowance, but it's not a rule for hand piecing - you'll learn what you like best).

Step three: Cut out the patches leaving enough fabric outside the drawn line for a seam allowance.

Hand Piecing

A strong memory came to me as I stitched this block. Once while we were talking about precise machine piecing (and all the angst I felt over it), my mom launched into a detailed description of how much easier precise piecing is by hand than by machine. Each stitch could be taken as slowly as she wanted, the needle and fabrics shifted minutely between her fingers, and she could even look before finishing a stitch to see how it would turn out and try again if she wanted, or take it out and try again after taking the stitch.

I was in my early twenties then, and while I knew how to hand piece, I had not attained that most necessary skill to understand what she felt and was trying to impart: the reward of patience. Without a machine to push you forward, each stitch waits on you to bring it to life.

One stitch at a time, I find myself finally figuring out how to give myself the time to slow down and enjoy every stitch. - Emily

Last month, we covered the Quilter's Knot, the Tailor's Lock Stitch, and the End Knot. If you missed it, you can catch up here.

Hand piecing the Uneven Nine Patch uses all the same techniques as you used for the Sixteen Patch block.

Piece each row, then sew the rows together to complete the block.

Piecing the Rows

Begin by piecing the patches into rows.

1. Layout your block. The Uneven Nine Patch block has three rows of three patches each.

2. Begin the top row by picking up the first two patches and stitching them right sides together.

3. Continue by stitching the next patch in the row to the set to complete the row. Finger press each of the seams in the row in the same direction.

4. Make all three rows.

Next, we'll sew the rows together, but before we get to that, let's review the tricky part, passing through the seams.

Passing Through the Seam

Step one: When you come to a seam, take a back stitch on the marked link, right up to the seam.

Step two: Pass the needle through the seam on the same side you are stitching from, above the seam's stitches. If you pass the needle below the seam's stitches your stitch will show on the front of your block.

Step three: Once on the other side of the seam, take a stitch forward, and then backstitch over this stitch to continue.

Assembling the Uneven Patch Block

It's time to stitch your rows together and complete your block. You may find it helpful to use pins or clips during this part. Do what is comfortable for you.

1. Lay the top row on the second row, right sides together. At this point, you can pin or clip the rows together if you choose.

2. Take your first locking stitch at the beginning corner. Stitch until you reach the first set of seams.

3. Stop and make sure the seams are aligned. Once the seams are matched, take your first back stitch, then pass through the seam and take your next stitch.

4. Continue stitching the row matching and passing through the seams as you come to them.

5. Once completed, finger press your rows.

6. Continue this process until you've stitched all the rows in the block.

At this point, you may be tempted to press your block. However, you may want to wait until you decide on your embellishment and quilting in week three.

Week Two

Welcome to week two of the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! For week two, we'll use the AccuQuilt Cutting GO! to die cut the fabric, and then we’ll machine piece the blocks with a focus on precision piecing.

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

Download the free 12" Uneven Nine Patch block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Uneven Nine Patch

Cutting with the AccuQuilt GO!

Cutting out a quilt is more of an athletic event than it used to be. I hate to admit it, but larger projects have grown into a multi-day event with painful recovery time needed. I guess everyone reaches that point, I just didn't think I would. To compensate for the aches and pains that hours of rotary cutting leaves me with, I shy away from larger projects in favor of smaller cut-as-you-go projects.

My first adventure with the AccuQuilt GO! recharged my passion for quilting! With the turn of a handle, my excitement unexpectedly exploded. I nearly cried. I hadn't realized how apprehensive I had become about larger projects until I saw that little machine start spitting out pieces - each one perfect and precise. Visions of quilts started dancing in my head! With the limitations gone, my creativity awoke. Now, cutting day is like a party. No recovery needed! - Betsey

Supplies for Cutting with the AccuQuilt GO!

Download the free Uneven Nine Patch block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Small scissors to cut threads, if needed

Dies Used:

GO! Square-3½” (3” Finished) (55006)

GO! Square-6½” (6” Finished) (55000)

GO! Rectangle-3½” x 6½” (3” x 6” Finished) (55005)

Fabric:

At least two different fabrics, but you could use up to nine unique fabrics.

If you need a refresh on the cutting process using the AccuQuilt Cutting System, visit last month's tutorial here.

Cut out:

(4) 3½" x 3½" squares

(4) 3½" x 6½" rectangles

(1) 6½" x 6½" square

Machine Piecing

Machine piecing is rich with a variety of techniques and tricks for assembly. If you have any trouble figuring it out or have questions, visit the AQS Quilting Project Parade Group on Facebook. We'll be happy to show you how.

Machine Piecing Supplies

Download the free Uneven Nine Patch block pattern from AccuQuilt here.

Sewing machine

Thread

Scissors

Fabric - For the Uneven Nine Patch block, we need (4) 3½" x 3½" squares, (4) 3½" x 6½" rectangles, (1) 6½" x 6½" square

Block Assembly

Much like last month's block, this block features basic shapes making row piecing ideal for block assembly.

Using the assembly diagram below, piece each row, then sew the rows together to complete the block. If you missed our tips for matching seams, please check out the Sixteen Patch Block tutorial here.

Be sure to stop by the AQS Quilting Project Parade Group on Facebook to show off your finished blocks.

Next Week...

I have to tell the story of these two blocks. After pulling fabric for week one, I was terribly torn. I spent a whole cup of coffee debating in my head whether to make the center square from the floral or the solid lime green fabric. Finally, I decided the center would be solid, the rectangles floral. And then I sat down, marked the center square onto the floral fabric instead, and cut it out before I realized what I’d done! Whether a mistake or unconscious wish fulfillment, it was done.

As I looked down at the big ol’ floral square I hadn’t planned on, I could see a pillow in my mind’s eye, like an answer to the question, “What now?” The pillow was the same block on the front and the back, but with the center and rectangle fabrics reversed. I could see at a glance I had enough fabric to pull it off and my relieved laugh was very real.

So for week two, I made the block for the back of the pillow I imagined. Does it make sense to combine a hand pieced and machine pieced block into a single object? Maybe not, but I’m reminded of a writer I met as a child. She was asked at a reading where ideas come from by one of the other children. She said she did not know, but that the source was less important than making the ideas come true, and that took work, no way around it, but making good ideas come true was rewarding work. This pillow is feeling like a good idea, I’m excited to get to work on finishing it up.

Next week, we’ll explore techniques that let us introduce words to our blocks. And I’ll share how the pillow turns out!

Week Three

Welcome to week three of making the Uneven Nine Patch as part of the AQS Block by Block Basics Series sponsored by AccuQuilt! For week three, we'll be adding extra embellishment to our blocks. This month, we're focusing on decorative hand and machine techniques that allow words to be added to blocks. For handwork, we’ll revisit hand embroidery to learn the backstitch, and on the machine we’ll branch out into freemotion embroidery.

In the months ahead, we'll explore many techniques including some for various finishing options. Have fun combining and building upon each month's embellishment techniques as it goes. Let's start with embroidery!

Be sure to join our AQS Quilting Project Parade Facebook Group to sew along with other quilters, ask questions, and share your progress.

Hand Embroidery: Backstitch

Lately, I’ve been reconnecting with books that transported me through girlhood. I realized this literary timeline may also be described as the Burnett-to-Brontë Pipeline after recently revisiting The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett.

Set on the English moors, the story begins in the desolate wintertime as orphaned Mary Lennox arrives at the home of the (absent) Archibald Craven. Mostly left to explore alone, Mary uncovers Archibald’s world, which is full of secrets he keeps to hide from grief after his wife’s death.

The story, ultimately, is of a family healing from the loss of connection. The garden and connection to nature teaches Mary how to return to the work of living, and in turn, she shows the Cravens. The garden is both a practice and a space where life happens. It is the whole world, if you look the right way. Stitching this quote was my way of capturing the essence of what I loved in this book as a child and an adult.

-Emily Cross

Supplies for Hand Embroidery

Embroidery Needle (select a needle with an eye big enough to handle the thread, floss, or perle cotton you'd like to use and make sure it has a sharp point.)

Embroidery Hoop

Thread, Floss, Perle Cotton, Yarn

Small Scissors

Pencil

Stabilizer, if needed

Tape, optional

Lightbox or Window

The Uneven Nine-Patch has a large center square just calling out for a good quote to embellish it. The backstitch is a versatile line-style stitch that’s excellent for depicting letters simply.

Design the Embroidery

There are many ways to create a design, from high to low-tech. I like to combine the ease of a computer to come up with the spacing of the words and lines.

I’ll even play with font options at this step.

Then I trace what I created by hand to start translating the design into something that can be stitched using a pencil and graph paper. Doing this exploration helped me decide on a final design.

Transferring the Design

Layer the design behind the block.

Because my block is completed and I want to center the design easily, I cut out a square the size of the center square with the design centered already. I used washi tape for a very short period to hold the design in place.

Find a light source and translucent surface like a window so the design shows through the fabric. Trace the design using a pencil lightly on the right side of the fabric.

Prepare to Stitch

Hoop the fabric to be embroidered, use stabilizer if desired.

Cut a length of floss or thread about 18” long to avoid tangling.

Thread an embroidery needle and tie a quilter’s knot in the end of the yarn.

Making the Stitch

The Backstitch is as easy as ABC!

Following the marked line of your design, insert the needle from the back at Point A and pull the thread through. Move forward and insert the needle down at Point B, completing the first stitch.

Bring the needle up ahead at Point C, then insert it back into Point B, pulling the thread through to create a continuous line. Continue on the marked lines.

Tie off on the backside. Tying off between words is recommended.

Here is a handy video if you aren't familiar with this stitch and want to see it in motion:

Backstitch by Wonderfil

Click here to learn how to make backstitches along with other basic embroidery stitches.

Freemotion Embroidery

In The Secret Garden, when Archibald Craven turns up at his home for the first time, briefly, Mary Lennox has already found the secret garden. She knows how happy it makes her to be there, finding all the little signs of life beneath the surface. Mr. Craven asks if Mary would like any toys, books, or dolls, and she asks for “a bit of earth” where she might make things grow. He's surprised, but soon answers, “When you see a bit of earth you want, take it, child, and make it come alive.” - Emily Cross

Supplies for Machine Embroidery

Sewing Machine (needs to be able to drop the feed dogs)

Freemotion Foot (sometimes called a hopping foot, compatible with sewing machine)

Embroidery Machine Needle (big enough to handle the thread weight of the thread you'd like to use)

Thread

Stabilizer (water-soluble demonstrated)

Temporary marking tool (water-soluble pen shown)

Small Scissors

Scrap fabric

Setting up the Machine

Freemotion embroidery and quilting share the same process, so check out this video!

Drop the feed dogs following your sewing machine manufacturer's instructions. This prevents the machine from moving the fabric, allowing for the “freemotion.”

Install the hopping foot.

(Install the embroidery needle now, if needed.)

Set your stitch length to 0. Turn down the speed on the stitching if available.

Use the scrap fabric with some stabilizer to test stitch tension and set up.

Block Set Up

Machine embroidery is often completed on the fabric first, then the fabric is cut and sewn into the block. But if the urge to add machine embroidery to a block strikes after making the block, freemotion embroidery is a great option!

Adding stabilizer that's sticky on one side to the back of the area to be stitched is simple and effective. I chose a water-soluble stabilizer so I could wash it away afterwards.

I marked guidelines for myself to stitch in using a water-soluble marker. In my practice runs on scrap fabric, I had better results freehanding the penmanship than following a design. Test for yourself!

Finally, I basted scrap fabric to each side of my block so there was plenty of material to handle around the areas to be stitched. That’s the brown floral fabric in the picture above. If I was stitching in the center, I may have skipped this option. Do what works for your project.

Freemotion Embroidery Tips

Remember to lower your presser foot before stitching! It’s easy to forget with the freemotion foot.

With your fingers held together and your thumb extended, make an L shape with your hands and place them flat over the fabric to either side of the foot. This creates a stable hold for moving the fabric with your hands, because the machine won’t move the fabric.